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Classical Eyelash Extension: Mistakes are Not an Option

The classical eyelash extension technique is a keystone! This is the three elephants that hold up the whole procedure. High quality eyelash extension is impossible without mastering the proper classical technique.

I want to turn your attention to the concept of proper technique. The eyelash extension industry exists for over a decade, but unfortunately, there doesn’t exist any eyelash alphabet, and no one is passing the masterhood exams before being accepted to work with clients. That is why we face vandal lashes treatment so often, as well as manifestation of an extreme unprofessionalism that destroys the reputation of the procedure.

Materials and training are open for people at large, which leads to general decline of the artists’ professionalism level.

It is essential for each artist to take her profession seriously, not as another hobby or way to earn money. It is very important to realize that we are working with eyes!

Eyes – are vital and fragile organs. On contrary to nail extension we bare a way bigger responsibility for the client’s health, since any eye injuries may lead to catastrophic circumstances! There was a case when due to unprofessional artist’s performance the client partially lost her sight.

You must realize that each time you put a person to the couch you take on all the responsibility for his or her health. The accident prevention includes several paragraphs such as disinfection, work-bench setup, positioning, but today we will consider the most significant item – the extension technique.

Under proper technique, I meant the accurate procedure performance with no damage done to the client and achievement of the proper aesthetic effect.


– Keeping distance from the eyelid. Essential! 0,01-0,03 inches is considered to be a norm. You can always check yourself at the end of procedure: move gently the skin of mobile eyelid towards yourself and if the distance was

properly kept you will see an even line of natural eyelashes in the hilar zone, you will as well observe 1-2 eyelashes, implanted in skin. While wearing, this distance will be invisible, but it provides your client with absolute comfort and safety! Such eyelashes won’t cause any discomfort even during eye squeeze.

Common mistake: false lash attached to eyelid. First-of-all, the eyelash extension glue mustn’t contact the skin; second-of-all, such eyelash will cause feeling of heaviness and contracture because of a glue drop, flown down from the baseline onto the lid. Third-of-all, if the distance is too short (0,003-0,01 in), the eyelashes will wear uncomfortably, because during the lash-line movement, the sharp edge of the eyelash baseline will cause discomfort. Both cases may result in eye irritation.

This problem is solved if you master eyelash fitting with the right distance.

– Eyelash fitting. False lash must be applied to the natural one from its root to the middle. The root of the false lash must be FIRMLY adjoined to the natural lash!

Common mistake: false lash is applied with its middle part, not the root one. Thus, free border is formed, which is in the air. First-of-all, there appears physical impact during the lash-line movement – eyelid prick; second-of-all, such lashes have a very short wearing period. A few brush strokes will be enough to see several fallen off ones.

This problem is solved if attention is paid to the lash removal technique; it’s dipping in the glue and working on correct hand position while fitting the eyelash.

– Lash autonomy. Each lash should stand separately from the others, that is – not to have any adhesive joints with any of the others. Natural with natural one, false with false one, false with several natural and false – all these are variants of adhesive joints. Your ideal eyelash extension mustn’t include any of these, it is very important, because this appears to be one of the most common technique mistakes. Client will have retracting and itching feeling, and this mistake will definitely leave an imprint on aesthetic part of the procedure. Remember: even 2-3 sites of adhesive joints can put the lid on the whole lash-line!

Common mistake: two and more eyelashes are adhered together. Every natural eyelash has its growth cycle and their adhesion with one another makes the natural growth impossible!

Correct fitting will in its turn allow each eyelash to go on its growth cycle without any hindrance.

– Aesthetic component of the technique. Every single applied lash has a specified direction, in accordance with the one of a lash-line and your designed scheme. You must bear in imagination the virtual picture of what the lash-line will look like at the end of procedure, and that will make it easier for you to fit the direction of each new lash.

Common mistake: the lashes are applied arbitrarily – with no precisely given direction. As a result, lashes look messy, disheveled, shapeless.

This problem is solved if you master the technique of false lash fitting.

– Protection from glue evaporation. It is important that during the procedure the client’s eyes are tightly closed.

Common mistake: If the pad is incorrectly placed onto the lower lid, the eye stays half open and glue vapor unrestrictedly hits mucosa throughout the whole procedure, which causes a chemical burn of an eye.

This problem is solved if you pay special attention to the correct placement of a pad onto the lower lid.

The relevant amount of attention should be paid to eye shaping. Eyelash extension – is a beauty industry procedure, aimed at glamming up a woman, correct possible inborn defects, that is why each artist must know how to find appropriate extension scheme and eyelash dimensions. But this topic is very wide and deserves a separate article.

Observation of the technique and choosing the right dimensions (length, thickness, curve) excludes excessive load upon natural eyelashes, moreover, more and more often we face such cases when damaged eyelashes totally recover and even become better after a year of noninterruptible extension!

According to European technologies, for example, the false lash thickness shouldn’t exceed the one of a natural lash for more than 30%, which is why, while choosing an extension scheme, an artist should rely not only on aesthetic tasks, but as well on the extension safety level for each client privately. Individual approach – is a must of any professional work.

I’ve described only principal technique peculiarities. There exists a huge amount of subtleties, without with you cannot show a perfect result. Each of the abovementioned items is full of pitfalls and ways to solve these problems.

Artist’s task – is to explore all these subtleties and actively apply gained knowledge in practice. I often face the situation when an artist possesses theoretical knowledge – they say: “I definitely know, that you shouldn’t apply lashes to the eyelid”, but having examined her technique, you can see that notwithstanding profound awareness, the rules are violated! Sometimes outside perspective is necessary to point out the mistake.

It is preferable that this would be a qualified specialist, not just a client. Clients often don’t know themselves what proper eyelash extension includes and take discomfort for granted; cheering themselves up with the belief that one should pay for his or her beauty. Yes, one should… to an artist, who diligently and professionally performs a perfect eyelash extension.

Lesia Zakharova, “Lesh Butik” studio director, St. Petersburg.

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