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Lesia Zakharova, Founder and Leading Instructor of the Institute of Eyelash Extensions, St. Petersburg, Russia

I’m often asked by the artists on how to deal with complicated situations, how to find a right decision of a particular problem. Each eyelash extension procedure has its own character, its special tricks. We all know that there are lashes pleasant to work with, but it also happens that the procedure turns into a long, painstaking process, when you are forced to search for individual solution to almost every lash. A professional has to be able to correct any natural lashes growth defects. This is one of the eyelash extension procedure goals.

I’ve selected the most common problems faced by professional lash artists, and I want to share my and colleague’s experience on how to deal with unusual situations in the extension process.

Downturned eyelashes

Eyelashes may have a downward growth along the eyelid or only in the outer corner; it is also possible that only several lashes are downward. A more intense artificial lash curve will help in all these situations. Even if you use gentle lash curl for a client, you can apply extreme curls in problem area, mixing them nicely, or you may use extreme curl lashes for only those parts, where it is necessary to accurately lift natural lashes. Immediately after fitting do a lifting move with tweezers from the bottom up. This way you can correct the eyelash direction until the glue is completely dried out. This is a very efficient trick. Don’t forget that if the problem of downward lashes is pressing, an artist has to opt for the possible minimum length lashes for such extension, it concerns particularly the outer eye corner lashes. This makes it possible to minimize the risk of the so-called cast down or sagging corner.

Shift minimization technique will help to solve this problem. If 0,5-1 mm shift is considered to be the best possible and corresponding to the correct technique, in this case it should be reduced to 0,5 mm.

Crooked eyelashes

When working with crooked eyelashes your main task is to give right direction for each applied lash. You don’t have to try and glue an artificial lash to the natural one throughout the length, the area of contact may be minimal, but it will help to set the desired direction. The main thing to remember is that the tip of each lash must have the direction you are trying to achieve.

Specific to aging eyelash extension

We all know and love such clients, and treat them with special care. If you don’t follow this rule, you should reconsider your attitude to them immediately! Specific to aging extension – is a procedure for clients over 45. At this stage of life there take place changes in the woman’s organism, related to regeneration functions’ withering. It affects the entire hair-covering, and, consequently, the quality of eyelashes. An artist should realize that the key thing in working with such clients is to do no harm! Otherwise the damage may be irretrievable. Therefore, it is important to remember a couple of simple rules.

Pay the greatest attention to the choice of material. For specific to aging extension I admit the usage of only two lash thicknesses: 0,07 mm and 0,10 mm. The first case requires sufficient thickness, so that you will achieve an absolute imitation of natural lashes effect. But the second option gives you a possibility to achieve the desired striking effect without affecting badly the natural lashes.

The next rule: strict adherence to technique! Very often not that firm client’s eyelid skin may complicate your work. But in any case you should strictly abide by all the rules. There exist several tricks that will help you to hold the overhanging eyelid skin, for example, the delicate pasting of the upper lid with a pad gently pulling the skin upwards (I never use this method, though). Ask your client to lift the chin, which will significantly facilitate your work, as the lashes’ roots are better seen and you can trace the shift from an eyelid.

Don’t forget about the importance of proper color selection. Dark brown eyelashes will suit many women, especially if they have pigmented spots on the face, light brown with gray hair, or dyed in warm shades.

An important factor is the choice of pads for lower lashes fixation. Sometimes artists use paper tape for this purpose. It is strictly prohibited in the process of specific to aging extension! The eyelid skin of a woman older than 45 is very thin, fragile and already has wrinkles. Regular stretching may lead to visible consequences. That is why, use only special pads: collagen or hydrogel-based. By the way, you will also benefit clients, as almost all of these pads provide a light lifting effect. Thought I would attribute the abovementioned warning to all types of eyelash extension: don’t cut down expenses on the cost of your clients – and they will surely appreciate it!

At the end of conversation I would like to encourage artists to pay attention to details. The peculiarity of this procedure is manifested in the fact that almost all the time the client remains eyes closed, and during this time all the sense organs are activated. That is why, put soft pads underneath the eyes that won’t irritate mucosa, suggest a soft mattress and a blanket, pleasant music. Make your procedure not only of high quality, but also exceptionally comfortable. And then, believe me, your client will always be with you!

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